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The manatee slowly raises its head to my mask. It looks like a tuskless walrus—flabby jowls, bristly whiskers, a thick leathery skin—an ugly face at first glance. I find it hard to believe that these are the mermaids of legend. Hardly the face and body of a sexy seductress!
Elvis Sighting
It was an unusually chilly week in January. With the air temperature struggling
to break 30°F, I braved an already wet wetsuit for a 7:00 am dip at
one of the most popular sites called Three Sisters. My reward—nearly
20 manatees crowded together, sharing their warmth on a bright sand patch.
Among the group gathered there was a female called “Elvis,”
so named by locals because of a large scar on her back resembling an “E.”
For the next two hours, Elvis never wandered far from my side. When I
rubbed her smooth underside, and especially the hollow at the base of
her flipper (a Manatee “erogenous zone”), Elvis was obviously
in complete bliss. She honestly seemed to enjoy the contact and attention
as much as I did.
Several years ago this spot was designated an manatee sanctuary. Part
of the area is roped off, creating a “manatees-only zone.” Snorkelers
can interact with animals outside of the boundaries, but are not permitted
to swim into the enclosure. This gives the animals a much needed breather
from the crowds of eager human visitors.
 Snorkeling is the easiest way to interact with manatees. Scuba bubbles usually frighten the animals. |
Another manatee spot is Blue Springs, on the Upper Homosassa River. As soon as we arrived, a young manatee with exceptionally warty skin came right up to our pontoon boat, and turned out to be patiently waiting for me as I hurriedly geared up. When we dropped anchor, it began chewing up and down the length of the anchor line. I imagine the rope was serving as a sort of dental floss. It was totally fixated with the anchor line and took no notice of me as I slid into the water and settled beside the boat to watch its antics. Like so many of its brethren, this manatee had numerous scars carved in its thick hide by a boat’s propeller. (Thankfully, many of these wounds usually are not serious enough to result in death. It is the force of impact with boat hulls at high speed, however, that is often times fatal.) These scars are grim proof that the manatees have not yet learned to fear boats. They should also be a reminder that boaters need to exercise much more caution when traversing manatee waters.
The
Beloved “Sea Cow”
Florida’s Crystal River area is one of the only places in the world
where humans have the opportunity to come face to face with these beloved
“sea cows.” The majority of the estimated 3,000 surviving manatees
can be found concentrated in central Florida during the winter months.
Cooling ocean temperatures force the manatees to move inshore and up into
the warmer spring-fed
riverways that remain a constant 72 to 74°F. Manatees don’t have
an insulating layer of blubber to protect them from the cold like many
marine mammals do. Prolonged exposure to 60°F ocean water can actually
lead to hypothermia and death.
Manatees spend much of their time sleeping and soaking up the warmth.
They also devote hours each day to feeding, and eating from 100 to 300
pounds of sea grasses per day. The average normal adult manatee is eight
to 10 feet long and weigh about 1,000 pounds.
| Grim
Picture The plight of the Florida manatee has finally captured the public’s full attention, and awareness of the existing problems is at an all time high. There are numerous conservation groups tirelessly campaigning to save the manatees. Manatees in aquariums, parks and rehabilitation centers draw huge crowds. Both are helping to further educate the public. Laws protecting the manatee are already in effect, and further safeguards are currently being implemented. Certainly the boat operators motoring along the coast and in the inland waterways will need to be more careful. And, waterfront development will have to be curbed to stop the destruction of the few remaining areas serving as manatee feeding and breeding grounds. In addition, those feeding areas near winter refuge sites that have already been destroyed will have to be restored—a formidable and expensive task to be sure. Man and manatee can coexist side by side in harmony, but we must be willing to work for it. |
MEETING
MERMAIDS
The most popular places to swim with manatees are the Crystal and Homosassa
rivers in west central Florida. Prime viewing months are December through
the end of February. If at all possible, try to time your trip for a cold
period. Weekends are likely to be very busy, with boatloads of snorkelers
on each group of manatees. For more personal encounters, schedule your
snorkeling tours during the week. Be prepared to start the day early,
as you will most likely have the best luck in the mornings before the
manatees have dispersed for their afternoon feeding.
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Cousin
Dugong |
Dugongs
are found from Eastern Africa to the Solomon Islands, but numbers
are small throughout most of its range. (Curiously enough, fossil
records hint that the dugong was once widespread in the Americas,
especially during the Pleistocene epoch. It appears the dugong was
eventually displaced by the manatee.) The largest concentration
(a few hundred?) is found around the Cape York Peninsula in northeastern
Australia. Although the dugong enjoys protection in most places,
it too is in danger of extinction. Some traditional hunting by Aborigines
is still allowed, while many also drown each year in gill nets used
by commercial fishermen working near shore. The author isn’t
aware of an Indo-Pacific equivalent to Crystal River, Florida, where
people can so easily and reliably encounter dugongs, though sightings
in Vanuatu, the Philippines, and Shark Bay, Australia, seem to occur
regularly enough to offer the best chance.
Snorkeling is usually the best way to get close to the manatees. Scuba
bubbles are more likely to scare the animals away; besides, scuba is totally
unnecessary with the very shallow depths. Most people choose to wear a
wetsuit to help ward off the morning chill. A few things to remember when
swimming with the manatees: Be constantly on the lookout if you are piloting
your own boat and obey all regulations; don’t chase the animals—let
the curious ones approach you; move slowly and avoid stirring up the bottom
sediment; at all times, be gentle with the animals and treat them with
respect—friendly ones will return the favor and provide you with
an unforgettable experience.
| For
the Scrapbook Manatees are among the most cooperative subjects a photographer is ever likely to work with. For those interested in taking photographs, plan on using mid-wide to super-wide angle lenses—the Nikonos camera set up with a 15mm or 20mm lens, or housed SLRs with fisheye to 24mm lenses, are quite effective. Video cameras also work very well with the manatees. Strobe light is usually unnecessary because you are in extremely shallow water (floating sediments would make backscatter a problem anyways). |
