Day One

After a 6:00 a.m. wake up call, we begin the tedious task of unpacking our seven cases of camera and dive equipment and carefully assembling the same. Clothes, consisting mostly of bathing suits, T-shirts and shorts, serve merely as a protective packing material for the fragile equipment.

A few difficulties arise during the set up, particularly with the new digital equipment, but by the time Ethan, one of Sam's Tours dive guides (and marine biologists) arrives to pick us up, we have managed to complete the assembly of one housed N90s and the digital Nikon Coolpix 950. Casey is starting out by shooting the digital on natural light utilizing the red filter, I'm armed with a macro 105mm lens, which is just as well, since the weather is not cooperating for wide angle. Ominous black clouds release one tropical rain squall after another and the wind is causing our boat to dance on choppy waves. It doesn't really matter, because once we are below the surface everything is wonderful.

Ethan has chosen Siaes Tunnel for our first site. This is a stunning, huge cavern that reaches from 60 feet past 140 feet. While located on the outside of the barrier reef, the cavern offers shelter from the current, and its depth invites many unusual species. Several entrances allow light to enter, illuminating the entire cave in a soft blue light. Encrusted with multi-hued sponges and orange cup corals, the ceiling is also draped with an upside down forest of black coral trees. The sandy bottom boasts an unusual species of a pink black coral bush, while all the entrances are elaborately decorated with crimson and golden seafans, and the rare Siphonogoria soft coral, which prefers dark areas, thrives in all colors of the rainbow. The fish life is equally rich: Red Lionfish skim along the cavern's ceiling, while long nosed hawkfish inhabit the numerous black coral trees. Burgess Butterflyfish may be found at the deeper part of the entrance facing the outside wall. Ethan points out a tiny specimen of Notodoris nudibranch, which turns out to be a species yet to be named. In search for dartfish and shrimp gobies along the sandy cavern floor, I accidently startle a group of resting Whitetip Reef Sharks that simultaneously swim off in dismay.

Outside the cavern awaits another surprise: A slender grouper swoops down on a black damsel and tries to gobble it up. I get a couple of shots of both of them struggling, before the damsel manages to wiggle out of the grouper's greedy jaws. Back on the boat, we are welcomed by blue skies and Palau's tropical sun. During lunch, we compare notes on marine life observed and Casey edits his digital images. He is still having occasional trouble with the focus and the lighting is tricky. Utilizing a flashlight for macro subjects tends to burn out the subject and casts an uneven light. He plans to use a strobe tomorrow. However, the white balance feature of the camera did a fabulous job capturing a turtle under low light conditions in murky water on our second dive at Lighthouse Channel.

Our first evening in
Palau consists of uploading our images, setting up additional cameras, recharging batteries, reloading cameras... basically preparing for another full day of adventure!